Close Shave: 5-Star Service at a 1-Star Price in Cappadocia

Sit in the chair, lean back, relax…
The soft hands of the barber place a towel over your shoulder and then fold it over the other shoulder, tucking it gently in your collar.
Close shave

Photo courtesy of Photos.com - james steidl

A new blade is opened and laid on the counter; the tin cup is filled with hot water. The horse hair brush is dipped in the water, rubbed in the soap until the foam is overflowing and then the warmth hits your jaw. For two minutes the soft, sudsy brush goes back and forth across your chin until any passerby would mistake you for Santa Claus.


The berber (Turkish for barber) washes his hands with a marble stone (I have not figured out the magic of this rock yet), picks up the blade and begins to dehair your face. With the best küafors (also Turkish for barber) you cannot even feel the blade. They start at the right sideburn, do the cheek and neck, and then head to the other side.

The blade removes some whiskers, the foam is wiped on the left palm, and this is repeated until their hand is full. The foam is neatly wiped onto a piece of newspaper, and with a clean hand the blade returns to your face.

Once they are done they repeat the whole process so that even Zach Galifianakis’ face would be as smooth as a baby’s behind.

With that finished you would think that it is time to go, but you would be wrong. They are just getting started. Next the rest of your head is attended to. Your hairline is straightened behind your ears and the back of your neck.

They take a special torture instrument – a wire with cotton on the end dipped in cologne or some kind of lighter fluid – light it on fire and wave it at your ears and upper cheeks to burn off the fuzz. This is another action that separates the good (no feeling) from the bad (wincing from singed flesh). If that did not do the trick, they will wax those areas. Next goes the nose hair (but not with fire).

At that point they decide you need a little (more) pain before you enter paradise, and they splash lemon cologne in their hands and rub it on your neck. It burns but the massaging motion of their hands makes it bearable.

This is followed with soothing lotion and a massage. At this point you will head into dreamland as they rub your face and move to the neck and shoulders. Often they do the back, arms and hands as well.

This is followed by the steamer and a cloth thrown over your head for a minute – nothing like a mini sauna to soften the skin. Now, you are ready to have your face rinsed and hair washed followed by a blow dry and style. They close everything with a few sprays of cologne.

At this point you are somewhere between pudding and jello, and they expect you to stand up. Then they hit you with the bill: 5TL! (around $2.70 or 2.02 Euro), and you nearly faint.

Now you know why I consider this to be one of the best experiences in Cappadocia (and most of Turkey as far as I know). So, when you men visit, be sure to forget your razor.

Would you be willing to get a shave when you come to Cappadocia?

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